Skin Care Ingredient Focus: Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol (pronounced “buh-KOO-chee-ol”) is a plant-derived compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, commonly known as the babchi plant. This ingredient has been used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for centuries due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. In recent years, bakuchiol has gained significant popularity in skincare for its ability to mimic the effects of retinol, a well-known anti-aging ingredient, but with fewer potential side effects. It is often referred to as a “natural retinol alternative” and is celebrated for its gentleness on the skin.

In this blog post, we’ll discuss the benefits of Bakuchiol for skin care along with how to add this great ingredient to your current skin care regimen.

How does Bakuchiol benefit the skin?

Bakuchiol offers a wide range of benefits for the skin, making it a versatile ingredient in many skincare routines. Its primary functions include:

1. Anti-aging: Bakuchiol helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. A study published in the British Journal of Dermatology showed that bakuchiol significantly improved signs of aging, including wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, after 12 weeks of use. It stimulates collagen production, which helps maintain skin firmness and elasticity.
2. Brightening and even skin tone: Bakuchiol has been shown to improve skin tone and texture by reducing dark spots and pigmentation. This makes it an excellent ingredient for those dealing with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or sunspots.
3. Acne-fighting properties: Due to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities, bakuchiol can help reduce acne. It regulates sebum production, minimizing clogged pores and reducing breakouts.
4. Antioxidant protection: Bakuchiol is a potent antioxidant that helps to protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by free radicals. This protection is crucial in preventing premature aging and environmental damage, such as pollution and UV rays.
5. Soothing and calming: Unlike retinol, which can cause irritation, bakuchiol has soothing properties that can calm inflamed or sensitive skin. This makes it ideal for individuals who suffer from conditions like rosacea or eczema.

Why Is Bakuchiol a Great Alternative to Retinol?

Retinol is a gold standard in anti-aging skincare, but it comes with some downsides. Common side effects of retinol use include dryness, peeling, irritation, and increased sensitivity to the sun, making it unsuitable for individuals with sensitive skin or certain conditions. Bakuchiol offers a gentler alternative with many of the same benefits. Here’s why:

• Gentle on skin: Unlike retinol, bakuchiol does not cause the typical side effects like redness, dryness, or irritation, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.
• Non-photosensitizing: Retinol is known to increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun, requiring users to apply sunscreen diligently. Bakuchiol, on the other hand, does not cause photosensitivity, making it safer to use during the day and less likely to exacerbate UV damage.
• Plant-based and natural: For individuals seeking a natural, vegan alternative to retinol, bakuchiol is an ideal choice. It is plant-derived, which appeals to those looking for cleaner or green beauty options.

How Does Bakuchiol Work?

Bakuchiol works by activating key pathways in skin cells that are involved in collagen production and skin regeneration. Like retinol, it signals skin cells to turn over more rapidly, which leads to the removal of dead skin cells, smoother skin texture, and reduced pigmentation. Furthermore, it increases collagen production, improving skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles. However, bakuchiol achieves these effects without the same degree of irritation or disruption of the skin’s natural barrier.

A key aspect of bakuchiol’s mechanism of action is that it does not bind to the same receptors as retinol. Instead, it influences gene expression in the skin to promote the production of collagen, elastin, and other structural proteins that maintain the skin’s youthful appearance. This makes it an effective option for anti-aging, without the downsides of irritation and sensitivity often associated with retinoids.

How to Use Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is found in various skincare products and can easily be incorporated into your routine. Here is how to use it effectively:

• Types of products: Bakuchiol is available in a wide range of formulations, including serums, moisturizers, facial oils, and creams. It is often found in products designed for anti-aging, brightening, or acne treatment.
• Application: Bakuchiol can be used both morning and night due to its non-photosensitizing nature. This makes it convenient for those who prefer a simplified routine and do not want to worry about sun exposure. It can be applied after cleansing and before moisturizing, or you can use a product that combines bakuchiol with other beneficial ingredients.
• Concentration: While concentrations of bakuchiol can vary between products, most skincare formulations contain between 0.5% and 2% bakuchiol. Lower concentrations are suitable for beginners or those with sensitive skin, while higher concentrations may be more appropriate for individuals seeking significant anti-aging benefits.

Should Other Products Be Avoided While Using Bakuchiol?

One of the benefits of bakuchiol is that it pairs well with most other skincare ingredients. Unlike retinol, which can be too harsh to use with exfoliants or other actives like AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) or BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), bakuchiol is gentle enough to be combined with other products in your routine. However, it is always a good idea to introduce new ingredients slowly to avoid potential irritation.

Bakuchiol can be used alongside hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and peptides for a well-rounded skincare routine. Additionally, pairing it with antioxidants like vitamin C can enhance its brightening and anti-aging effects.

Is Bakuchiol Safe for All Skin Types?

Yes, bakuchiol is considered safe for all skin types. Its gentle nature makes it especially appealing for individuals with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea who may not tolerate retinol well. Studies have shown that bakuchiol does not cause irritation or exacerbate conditions like retinol can. It’s even suitable for individuals with acne-prone skin due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

Are There Risks or Side Effects?

While bakuchiol is generally well-tolerated, as with any skincare ingredient, there is a potential for individual sensitivity or allergic reactions. It is always recommended to perform a patch test before introducing any new product to your skincare routine. Applying a small amount to a discrete area and monitoring for 24 hours can help determine if you have any adverse reactions.

However, studies suggest that bakuchiol is much less likely to cause the dryness, peeling, or irritation commonly associated with retinol, making it a safer option for most people. A 2018 study comparing bakuchiol to retinol found that both ingredients offered similar improvements in photoaging, but those using bakuchiol experienced fewer side effects.

Alternative Ingredients to Bakuchiol

For those seeking alternatives to bakuchiol, several other natural and synthetic ingredients can offer similar benefits:

• Retinol: The original anti-aging powerhouse, retinol is a vitamin A derivative that promotes cell turnover and boosts collagen production. It remains a popular choice for individuals seeking more potent results, though it may come with side effects.
• Rosehip oil: Rich in vitamin A, rosehip oil offers gentle exfoliation and helps reduce the appearance of scars, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkles. It is an excellent natural alternative for those with sensitive skin.
• Niacinamide: A form of vitamin B3, niacinamide helps brighten the skin, reduce inflammation, and improve the skin’s barrier function. It’s a great alternative for those looking for anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits without irritation.
• Peptides: These short chains of amino acids stimulate collagen production and help to improve skin elasticity and texture. Peptides are often included in anti-aging formulations alongside or as an alternative to retinoids.

Bakuchiol stands out as a gentle yet effective skincare ingredient that offers many of the same benefits as retinol without the associated risks of irritation and sensitivity. Its versatility, suitability for all skin types, and natural origins make it an attractive option for anyone looking to improve signs of aging, acne, or skin texture. Whether you’re seeking a plant-based alternative or simply want a gentler approach to skincare, bakuchiol is a powerful ingredient worth considering.

Dr. Jean Charles is a Board-Certified Dermatologist with fellowship training in cosmetic surgery. Dr. Charles earned her Bachelor’s degree from the University of Texas at Austin. She then completed her medical degree at the University of North Texas Health Science Center, Texas College of Osteopathic Medicine. Dr. Charles provides treatment for a wide variety of dermatologic conditions for patients of all ages and skin types including acne, eczema, psoriasis, and skin cancer, as well as cosmetic dermatology including Botox, fillers, laser treatments and more.

Disclaimer: The contents of the Westlake Dermatology website, including text, graphics, and images, are for informational purposes only and are not intended to substitute for direct medical advice from your physician or other qualified professional.